This is so over-run that the council even set up escalators to the top of the hill. But, and this is a big but, the minute you escape further up the hill, the crowds thin out and there are nice and quiet picnic tables. Parc Güell has a magical quality that seems to make the hours disappear - and you have some stunning views of Barcelona.
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There's no shame in hitting the tourist trail for this one - Gaudi's mad talent is on full display, and it's one of those things that are not to be missed.
Bring a packed lunch and avoid being ripped off in the kiosks and restaurants on the site.